Muslim Ninjas

I am still in Lamu. I've decided to stay put for a little while, its nice here. The people here are different from most I've met before. I had a really great experience with some Swahili Muslim girls a few days ago that I felt like writing about.



I went to have my hands pico'ed (a black dye similar to henna is applied to the skin on the hands/feet which lasts for about 3 weeks). Sofia, the woman who did my hands, was really nice. All the female members of her family where in her house where I had my treatment done, there were quite a few of them there. She told me she was 20 and she had 3 kids. She couldn't believe that I had no husband or children yet and I was already 30. Her cousin and 2 of her babies were there and she asked me if I wanted one of hers. She pointed to her 2yr old daughter in a pink dress. The toddler looked up to me with big blank eyes. She said she had too many and she didn't want them all. The sad thing was that I really think she was serious. I tried to laugh it off and told her that I could barely take care of myself. Looking closer at the women they all looked tired and many years older than they actually were.

Her younger sisters and cousins were really curious to talk to me about family planning. They wanted to know how western women prevent pregnancies. So I told them about birth control pills, IUD, depo-provera, tube tying and vasectomy. The women had never heard of any of this before and I spent the next hour explaining how the pill works and how you needed to see a doctor to get a prescription. There is a hospital, clinic and several pharmacies on the island so its possible the pill may be available here. I don't know. I know you can get in it Nairobi, but its a little more rural here... As I spoke their eyes grew wide and they leaned in closer to me. They all wanted to get on the pill. Adamantly. None of them wanted to have 10 kids like their mothers. They wanted kids, but only 2. I really felt bad for them but all I could do was to educate them and make them aware of their options. I have no idea what medicines they have access to, but at least they know there are drugs out there that could help them control their reproductive rights.

There was so much they wanted to learn about their bodies and reproduction. After the pill chat they asked me how they could prevent becoming fat after pregnancy. So we talked about diet and exercise. This is another cultural problem for the women because they primarily cook by frying everything in large amounts of oil; as well women do not play sports or exercise when they mature. When they reach puberty the girls here wear burquas - black scarves covering their entire body only showing their eyes - when they go outside, so its hard to play ultimate or tennis...(sorry tasteless sarcasm here).

A 15yr old girl made a good joke though: although we look like ninja's we're not as fit as them! They all cracked up laughing. It was a good one. Now when I see them walking down the street I think of ninjas and I have to try not to laugh lest I offend someone.

Something unusual about the burquas here is that they all have sparkles sewn along their hems and seams. Glittering rhinestones that shine in the light. Its quite pretty actually, although I have to admit I find it a little confusing. Most Muslim girls I've met have tried to decorate themselves in some fashion no matter how modest they are expected to be. I suppose the strange thing is what certain cultural groups of Muslims deem acceptable and others not.

Lamu Island is a mix of many religions and cultures. Swahili Muslims, Christians, Rastafarian and Maasai warriors. Very interesting just to watch people walking down the waterfront. I walked back from the beach with 2 Maasai warriors yesterday, that was interesting. Here is a picture of Seremon, one of the Maasai.



The thing about my travels is that I just don't spend my time tanning on the beach and getting drunk. I really enjoy talking with the people who live there and getting to know the real place I am visiting - those impoverished or not. Most of the tourists I've met here on the island would not go into a local woman's house, share her homemade samosas and have a heart to heart with them (I'd also like to point out that the women brought up the topic of birth control and not me - I don't preach, only explain the best I can when asked). These are the moments I'll remember long after my tan fades and I'll carry with me the rest of my life. I'm not saying that its bad for people to numb themselves while on vacation, because I do that sometimes too, but I suppose I'm just trying to explain what motivates me and what I value.
Its amazing what happens when you leave yourself open, walk down a path not in the tourist guide, speak to a person who is not a tour guide, check your prejudice at the door.